To convert a Nord to/from 250V nominal power (that of course includes 230/240V systems too) to 120V nominal (including 110/120/125V, though I am not certain if it includes 90/100V systems, someone else will have to advise on that one) you need to set the internal switch in the power supply to the appropriate position AND CHANGE THE FUSE.
Here's where people always post, as they're not sure what fuse they need. So, for reference and to put it all in one place we can point people to, I humbly offer the following details.
This applies, as far as I'm aware*, to all of the standard Nords, including Stages, Electros, Lead 1/2/2x/3/4/A1, etc.
You're looking for a fuse with the following specifications, they're quite common:
Size | The fuses come in two sizes, and there's some confusion between the data sheets** and reality on which size matches which colour of fuse holder plastic. black or light grey cap: 1.25"x0.25" (31.75x6.35mm or sometimes listed as 6.3x32mm). A common series of fuses is called "313" for this type, by Littelfuse. black cap: 5x20mm Note that if your fuse holder cap is black, it could be EITHER SIZE so I recommend you check exactly the fuse itself or just buy one of each size to be sure. |
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Amperage | If you want a "North American" (120V ish) fuse: 0.3A = 300mA = 3/10A "slow blow" If you want a "European" (250V ish) fuse: 0.15A = 150mA "slow blow" |
Voltage | 250V in both cases, regardless of the wall voltage |
*Please correct me if I'm wrong, I haven't owned EVERY Nord ever!
** https://www.schurter.com/en/datasheet/t ... U__FAC.pdf