sustain pedal roland dp series

[M_a_c]

Oops - Mea culpa...

For testing, I only switched the DP-10 from "Switch to Continous".
Setting the Pedal in the NS4 to "NordPedal2" (what is neccesarry for the Half-Pedal Function)
brings up your described issue (the problem occures first when you press the pedal once)

My mistake - Sorry for the confusion...

[Midinotes]

If you switch the Roland DP-10 to continuous I think it will just act as an on/off pedal switch i.e. without half-pedal damping. It needs to be continuous. I think it's just a case of reversing the connections to the variable resistor inside the pedal, but might be possible also with an inline adapter cable (to save modding the pedal). Will crack open the DP-10 and look at the connections and circuitry.

Simon

[M_a_c]

...just keep us updated. I will follow you and will be able to use my DPs on the Yamaha too then...

[Midinotes]

I've successfully modified my Roland DP-10 foot pedal to work as a half-pedal continuous damper pedal on the Nord Stage 4.
You can read more at https://midinotes.com/read-the-latest-p ... rd-stage-4

Hope this helps anyone who has a DP-10 kicking around and would like to use it with the Nord.

Many thanks
Simon

[maxpiano]

I've successfully modified my Roland DP-10 foot pedal to work as a half-pedal continuous damper pedal on the Nord Stage 4.
You can read more at https://svpworld.com/converting-a-rolan ... d-stage-4/

Hope this helps anyone who has a DP-10 kicking around and would like to use it with the Nord.

Many thanks
Simon

Good and thanks for sharing the very detailed description of how you did it

I still believe a male/female TRS adapter would have been an easier way to achieve the same (and keep the DP10 unmodified i.e. useable on Roland and compatibles), but ymmv

[M_a_c]

That’s what I think as well, an external adapter that switches the wires for tip and ring would be much easier and needs no modification inside the pedal - or am I missing something?

[Midinotes]

You could make an inline adapter to swap the black and red wires, as long as you don't use it in switched mode with the adapter. However the downside is that the ground side will no longer act as a screen for the cable, which might induce noise. Worth a try though if you don't want to mod the pedal. For me I had a spare DP-10 so happy to swap it round as it will used permanently with the Nord. Will probably put a red dot on it so I know which is which!

Simon

[maxpiano]

You could make an inline adapter to swap the black and red wires, as long as you don't use it in switched mode with the adapter. However the downside is that the ground side will no longer act as a screen for the cable, which might induce noise.

Why wouldn't it? You have 3 wires and as far as one of them will still be connecting 2 grounds (regardless if this happens via T or R or S terminals of the jack on either side) nothing changes, from a circuit point of view the adapter implements exactly the same configuration that you made with the modification on the DP10 board.

Anyway talking of noise on a 10K pot being read by a 5 or 3.3 voltage source, to generate values between 0 and 127, is not really something to be worried about.

[Schorsch]

Just to be sure, which contacts would have to be switched when creating the adapter?

• R - S

• T - R

• T - S

From the schematic diagram it looks like it should be the first option (R -S), but then the on-off function will not work anymore, or am I wrong here?

Roland DP-10.jpeg (35.76 KiB) Viewed 599 times

[Midinotes]

Yes 1st option would be the one, swap the sleeve and ring connections (the tip goes to the slider of the variable resistor so remains unchanged).
The on/off function will not work if you do this as most keyboards requiring just an on/off switch pedal use a mono jack socket. In this case the ring gets ignored or shorted to the sleeve. However you don't need to use an adaptor when using it as an on/off switch pedal.


Simon