Nord User Forum

Just a feedback concerning the fix of my issue.

SPOILER: @M_-G- was right: the pot shaft screw needed to be tightened.

More details for those interested:
So, I finally decided to fix that by myself. After having watched some video on YouTube, I was pretty sure to be able to do that.

First, I opened the top panel without removing one screw on each side of the keyboard in order to see if I can do something without unplugging LCD connectors. But I quickly decided to remove the entire panel and it is far more confortable.
Note for those who use the Nord Stand EX, you need to remove the right bracket (higher notes side) to have access to third screw under the keyboard.

Then, I saw the very little black piece of metal perpendicular to pot shaft, but I was not sure if I can and/or how to tighten it.
So my first try was to turn what I thought it was a screw in the center of the wheel at the extremity of the shaft. It seemed to me that my issue was fixed.
After having quickly mounted and connected top panel to do a try, I understanded my mistake, I only modified the potentiometer calibration (or initial position).
After analyzing in which direction I should turn this "screw" to go back to previous position, I finally had the confirmation that the black metal piece was a screw.
The problem is that this screw needs to be tightened with a tiny torx key that I don't own. So, I used a plier.
After a last check, my problem was fixed.

If I need to do the operation again, I will buy a tiny torx key before.
I am impressed how nord stage is well constructed, all pieces perfectly fit together. Unmounting top panel was quite simple to me.
(To evaluate my level: I already unmounted/mounted another synth (Korg T3) and I am used to mount/unmount computers)

Hope this time, I used the correct words and my explanation is understandable

Nice one. For what it's worth, that's called a grub screw. If you don't have Torx drivers, you can sometimes get enough bite with an Allen key or a small flat screwdriver - but don't overtighten or you'll strip the head.

Just received my NS3C from Sweetwater today. Set it up, connected pedals, played with the piano and organ and all was well. Upgraded the firmware, still no problems. Came back tonight and just started going thru presets and playing with the mod wheel, which is when I started getting extreme level jumps when morphing with the synth section. Level might be just about halfway up and then drop to zero; nudge the mod wheel and level goes back up. I noticed it on probably 5-6 presets.

I’m pretty PO’ed because with the current situation it makes it difficult to bring it to a service center - I know, first world problems! My sales rep is supposed to be back on Monday, but they’re running a skeleton crew right now. I’ll make a list of problem presets over the weekend, that’ll give me something to do while it’s raining.

All other functionality of the mod wheel works as expected.

Just wanted to thank @toniolito. Bought an used Nord Stage 4 with a big discount here in the US. Paid $3800 instead of $4900. Today I found out why. Modulation wheel wasn't working.

I live in Utah, and any support would be hard and take many days.

Just opened my Nord Stage 4 just like @toniolito. Found out that the connector of the cable from Mod wheel to the keyboard motherboard was disconnected.

Connected and happily it works great now!

A thousand dollars for a ten-minute fix!

Heya everyone,

I ran into erratic behaviour of the mod wheel on my Nord Stage 3 Compact.

Thanks to the info in this thread and another one, I managed to open it up, re-connect the, uh, connector and voila, it works fine again

Unfortunately, now the connector sits right above the lowest C and presses down on it continuously, I can't make it play anymore. Do any of you fine people have some tips or tricks for me on how to rectify this situation, or is this a case for Nord's workshop?

Here's two pictures of the current state of affairs: clicky

Best,

Mo

I had this problem a while back. I removed the connector, cut the wires, and soldered them directly onto the leads on the board. Thankfully, it worked since and the bulky connector no longer is there to interfere with the key action.

-dj

Dang. I had hoped I could get around this. I'm not a soldering man. Too bad!

Morizzle wrote: ↑13 Dec 2024, 00:28 Dang. I had hoped I could get around this. I'm not a soldering man. Too bad!

Any decent electronics guy can easily do this-

-dj

True... I'll swing by a place tomorrow morning.