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moped2000 wrote:Hey, there really is a TP/9s in the Novation SL 49 MkII. I swapped it and it is fully compatible. A pleasure! The velocity is so much more controllable. Finally the synth is really usable for me
And it doesn't look like a frankenstein synth, I think. Take a look for yourself and form your own opinion! The keys stick out a bit, but I personally don't mind that at all!
Thanks for your support
If someone is interested, I can write a tutorial
Cheers, Moped2000
Dear Moped2000, thanks for your pdf, I found it most useful.
I need to open my NLA1 in order to swap a couple of gray buttons tops.
In order to lift the main chassis and reach the buttons (so to remove the gray tops), do I need to unscrew the 3 top screws on the left sode and 2 top screws on the right side?
When unscrewing the motherboard, what screwdriver does it need?
And I suppose, do i need to also remove the rubber knobs' caps to detach the motherboard from the chassis?
Edit:
sorted!
Last edited by varignet on 07 Oct 2021, 20:30, edited 4 times in total.
Nord Lead A1, Korg Trinity 76 Pro, Kawai MP7SE, Guitars, Ukes
An interesting project if you already have an A1. If buying new though and assuming you don’t have space constraints a Wave 2 will have the excellent TP8 keybed already and the going price (not list) is maybe $500 more.
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After a while I got a cheap second hand Novation Sl mkii 49. Going to try to mod my 2X. I’m a bit nervous, not that much experience with electronic devices, but I really want to get rid of that toyish tp7 action. Any other consideration or advice?
Hey everyone, I've successfully transplanted a TP9/S into my A1, following Moped2000's instructions. I'll just add my two cents:
- I used longer/thicker screws, the original ones don't grip properly;
- I cut 2mm from the keybed assembly so it could better fit inside the A1 chassis (see attached draw with red arrows);
- Be careful when drilling the new holes
Not sure about the AT strip in parallel with MW, you can try but first I suggest you measure the resistance values of AT strip (at no pressure then full pressure), to be sure what is its range and how does it compare to the MW one (which should be a 10k).
I agree with maxpiano, I do not think that having the strip in parallel with the wheel will do what you are expecting.
I think that adding a double pole, double throw switch to choose between the wheel and aftertouch would be a better idea.
So after perhaps 10 years of being pretty happy with the NLA1, I have just done the keyboard swap as per moped2000 instructrions (from a donor SL 49 mk II that I bought cheap) and I’m well chuffed!
I used the screws that had held the keybed in the Novation, and that worked well. As others have said, the screws from the OEM keybed are too narrow.
I see some traffic about trying to splice the aftertouch into the modwheel circuit. Sounds interesting. Has anyone actually tried this? Or even measured the resistance of the two circuits?
The velocity is so much more controllable. Finally the synth is really usable for me
